Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Friday the 16th....albergue closed, camp in churchyard
this was our second day. we were trying to get to estrella....i thought we must be almost there when i saw a sign that said estrella:15k. this was at like 2 in the afternoon. we had been hiking or like 5 hours...all through mud and clay and hilly terrain..and apparently had only gone 5k..i knew at this point that there was NO WAY we could make it to the next place there was an albergue and that we would have to camp. we kept going but finally i knew we werent going any further than the next village or so... i thought probably we could just ask to sleep in a church or something. no such luck. we got to whatever this village was i forget, and the albergue said closed except to groups. an old man indicated to me to ring the bell across the street since they were the ones who ran it but they didnt answer. so i thought maybe i could sleep in the church. i had been figuring hey, im a pilgrim right, so they should let me sleep in churches, right ? i somehow communicated to a guy washing his motorcycle at the public fountain that was there anywhere for me to put my tent and/or was there a priest i could ask if i could sleep in the church. he said there was no priest in the village but that noone would really care if i put my tent there. darn. i wish i could upload my pictures... anyway i managed to peg the tent in the mostly-stone courtyard, since the mortar was crumbling enuff that i could peg it into the stonewalls and benches. lol. and jury-rig it. gro was not real thrilled with the tent because it is so so tiny she cant stand up in it. also, there was no shop in this village so we had very little food. i had a little of her dogfood left...which she had to eat out of my shoe for lack of a bowl. lol. anyway, I felt pretty safe in the chruchyard in this little village and my tent was hidden by the stonewall anyway. i heard someone go into teh church and banged on the door to ask if i could stay in it but they didnt answer. later, a nun came out and i asked her was my tent ok there. she indicated it was fine. but really i was hoping she woudl feel bad for me and offer me somewhere better to stay. but no luck. we crawled in for a long night. the tent isnt really big enuff for me and gro and my stuff... she cant stand up in teh bottom end of it and i cant sit up in it even in the top end of it. but it only weighs less than a kilo. but jeez they could have made it a foot by a foot bigger so you could at least sit up in it. anyway, we went "to bed" and it was actually pretty warm in the tent. then a barking dog came outside it and gro started growling etc... then i heard a womans voice and later realized she was probably looking in the tent "window" above me but i didnt realize it at the time.... i thought it was someone mad at me for being there but i told her i didnt speak spanish and she got me to come out and went and got her son and they told me how cold it was and they were going to show me somewhere better to stay...and they showed me this entryway to a building that was enclosed on three sides with a roof...but i tried to explain that i couldnt peg my tent there. then she asked did i want milk or coffee or anythign and said how cold out it would be...i asked her could i use her bathroom. adn she gave gro some water and me some bread for her. she was really sweet and it was her dog that had been barking at us...but i really wanted to ask her if i could sleep in her garage or something... when they told me they were showing me a better place to sleep i was hoping they were taking me inside somewhere... so as sweet as she was, i was a little disappointed.... anyway, we had an ok night but even with a sleeping mat the stones were HARD.
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Health codes generally prevent the entry of dogs. It is January, so many albergues are closed. Ventosa closed on October 31, 2008 for the season. Hospitaleros often know about closures ahead on the Camino, so ask. Taking a bus from Burgos to Leon will bypass the meseta, the flat area. You will hit two mountain ranges after Leon. Good luck.
ReplyDeleteKaybee, I wish you warmer days and nights, a dry path under a blue sky, a bed at the end of the day with your companion and kind people to help you.
ReplyDeleteBuen camino, buen suerte,
Sil
Kristen you certainly are having quite the adventure. Thanks for sharing it with all of us on your blog. I wish you warm nights, hot showers, and a happy dog. Blessings, Hope
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